jenner
A Final Toast
date: August 21-23, 2026
location: Jenner, Calif.
camera: Leica Q2 + LeicaLUX App
Last Vintage, First Visit — A Weekend Worth Every Mile
Arista Winery announced that 2024 would be their last vintage — a bittersweet moment for anyone who has loved their wines over the years. Rather than attend their usual Fall Chardonnay party, we wanted something more intimate for this final chapter: a small dinner with the winemaker and a handful of fellow wine lovers who felt the same way. We normally make the drive up and back in a day — nearly five hours of driving — but this time we decided to make a proper weekend of it and explore Jenner, a small coastal town just north of Point Reyes we'd always driven past but never stopped in.
We left Friday afternoon ahead of the traffic, winding through green hills toward the coast before arriving at Madeira House — a quaint boutique hotel perched right on the Russian River. Our unit was a lovely modern cabin with a mini kitchen, a sitting area, and views out over the river and Penny Island. We poured a glass of wine, settled onto the balcony, breathed in the salt air, and let the work week quietly dissolve. Just a five-minute walk away is Sirens Cellar, a small, unassuming wine bar with an unexpectedly wonderful list — we sipped a glass of sparkling Albariño, watched the birds play on the water, and fell into easy conversation with the people beside us. Dinner was at The River's End — and yes, it is literally where the river meets the sea. Incredible sunset views, delicious unpretentious food, and a short walk from the hotel. Just watch for the speeding cars.
Saturday morning we woke to cool air, hilltop fog, and a river otter diving and resurfacing just below our balcony — better than any alarm clock. Right next door to Sirens is Café Aquatica, and if you can, arrive early enough to claim one of the wooden chairs along the river's edge. We shared Dungeness crab toast, scones, and pour-over coffee while keeping a close eye on the tiny birds determined to steal every last bite. With a free day ahead, we drove to Goat Rock Beach for a long walk along the shoreline — a beautiful, wild stretch of coast perfect for a picnic or simply breathing deeply. We made note of the kayak rentals for next time — paddling around Penny Island to spot the marine life is firmly on the list.
The afternoon took us south to Bodega Bay with fresh oysters on the mind. Hog Island was the destination, but without a reservation the wait was over an hour and a half — far too long. The pro tip, which we were very glad to discover, is to duck around the corner to their market. We bought a dozen oysters, a metal tray, ice, a shucker, gloves, some meat, cheese, and a bottle of wine, and set ourselves up at a small counter just outside. Kalob shucked beautifully, we arranged them on ice with hog wash, and proceeded to sip, nibble, and chat with the fellow oyster enthusiasts around us. Absolute perfection.
The evening was the reason for the whole trip — dinner at Kanzler Winery, close friends of the Arista family. We began on the deck, mingling over a side-by-side comparison of both wineries' rosés as the sun dipped toward the vineyard. Dinner was laid out on the lawn — two long tables dressed with wildflowers and strung with twinkling lights above, each course paired with wines from both houses, all summer delicacies at their finest. The conversation with the couples around us was as good as the wine, which is saying something.
Our last morning followed the rhythm of the first — coffee on the balcony, this time watching a flock of birds dive-bombing the river for breakfast. One final visit to the café for a parfait and a bagel with lox and cream cheese, savoring both the meal and the view before packing up and heading home. Jenner surprised us completely, and we'll absolutely be back — perhaps in the cozy quiet of winter, when the river runs high and the crowds have long gone.
